Pinocho's Bar early morning

My jet lag was in full swing a few days after landing in Barcelona. I would pop up at 3-4am local time wide awake. Not knowing what to do I wandered the streets from my hotel in a daze. After living in Las Vegas for many years, it takes awhile before one realizes that the rest of the world isn’t on the go 24/7! Still, I meandered through the darkened streets in search of a cup of coffee.

I eventually made my way to Placa de Catalunya, and the end of Las Ramblas. Seeing Las Ramblas other personality after all the trinket shops are closed is quite an eye opener, and to be honest, probably not for the mild mannered! Working girls of all genders ebbed and flowed out of the shadows, communicating by some code of whistling. I warded most off before turning a corner into three of them, near the opera house. Mistaking me for a late-night reveler, one tried to hug me, while the others distracted me, and I felt deft hands trying to lift my billfold. I grabbed her wrist while yelling “Policia” and her friends disappeared like mist, I released her and she did the same. I’ve been in a lot worse neighborhoods than this one sister, but travelers beware, lol

I eventually found myself in front of Mercat de Saint Josep also known as La Boqueria. The fish mongers were bringing in the nights catch and workers were off loading ice. It may have been 6am and nothing was open when I heard the sound of metal grating being pushed open. A small group of workers were huddled around world famous Pinocho’s bar, and I joined them as they grabbed seats. Pinocho himself was behind the bar, and made me a Cappuccino. I gratefully sat back on my stool and watched as one of the world’s most famous markets came to life. Pinocho holds a hallowed spot in this market, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a travel video that went to the Mercat de Saint Josep that didn’t visit his bar. I myself have gone several times on each visit to Barcelona.

I love seeing the real culture of a place, not the crap that is packaged for the masses. And yes, the market is a big tourist destination, being right on Las Ramblas. Yet, at 6am it was just me, the owner, and the constant stream of workers getting some coffee, and a pastry before starting their day. I quietly watched as folks who have probably been coming there all their adult lives, pressed against the bar and traded gossip with their neighbors.

I watched with interest as 2 young guys ordered some dish made with beans, and I assume squid, the ink turned the dish black, they shared it and then headed off to work. I loved the pastries! My favorite was something that looked like a sugar coated croissant and was filled with creamy custard, yum!
Pinocho’s is a Barcelona institution, and one not to be missed. It gets insanely busy once the market is in full swing, and I must admit to have most enjoyed those quiet moments in the early morning, as Barcelona and myself slowly woke up to yet another wonderful Catalan day.

Please enjoy this link to “Made in Spain” Jose’ visits La Boqueria and you get a good look at Pinocho’s

Made in Spain, Catalunya episode